End of an Era - Grace passes away beautifully

Grace Wardell, an iconic legend of Kodaikanal passed away on 11-Jun-2010 at 12:50 PM in the arms of her son Mark Antrobus. It was a beautiful and a dignified passage with a serene smile on her face. She was given a grand farewell and the last rites and rituals were performed and was buried in her farm the next morning with a panoramic view of the farm. Grace was born on 23-Mar-1908 at London.

Here are some articles on Grace

Woodford's Oldest Old Girl!

Full of Grace - The Hindu

Amazing Grace - Outlook India

Cover Story by Olivia Hanson

Govind's Pizza Toast for Grace

Grace Turns 100

Grace Turns 102

Grace turns 102

Grace turned 102 today. It was supposed to be a Walnut Banana Cake Party :) Yummy.. isn't it. I missed the cake as well as some direct blessing from Grace. Hopefully, I'll make it to Kodai for her 103 rd Birthday.



Grace Wardell was born in 1908. She is the first woman Features Editor of a national newspaper, The London Daily Express and has covered the Second World War. Grace and her son Mark live in Kodai

Eid Mubarak

Peace prevailed everywhere! If there was any breach, it was at nature's own accord. Torrential rains and land slides were the only reasons to keep peace aside for a while. People were always at peace. This is the Kodai I remember.

At Kodai, we had more festivels to celebrate than any religious group. Be it New Year or Pongal or Ramadhan or Diwali or Christmas or Bakrid, the entire town would celebrate. It was not a town belonging to any nation, but a commune embracing all faiths and respecting people of all faiths. For us, the world beyond Kodai never existed.

But for the marriages, the entire population seemed related. Hindus and Muslims calling each other rightfully as cousins (mama - mappillai) and same goes with Christians. This relationship spanned across generations. We lived as families. Infact, my dad and my uncle were named with a proper hindu names by a muslim. To this day, even after four generations we maintain and respects the bonding our forefathers had established.

In Kodai, no matter which belief you follow, you are sure to devour Biryani on the Ramadan day, enjoy a pastry and hoist a star on your roof on the christmas day and burst some fireworks with a sumptuous feast on the Diwali Day. No matter what happens elsewhere, the town with its people was in perfect harmony.

This had been the case till Kodai was turned into a tourist destination and started accomodating more settlers from the plains. Then, the Ganesh Pooja processions, Babri Masjid Agitations and the impact of all that happens beyond its borders started creeping in. Politics took an upperhand over peace.

In spite of these effects, I'm sure they still continue to live as families, in our old ways. Though Kodai and I have abandoned each other for nearly a decade, the reason I rememberd her today is because of my muslim friends and their Ramadan Day's scrumptious Biryani.

Image Note: A Mosque sits brotherly next to a Church and an Amman Temple

Connecting People

Connecting People.... Hey, I'm not promoting Nokia here. It's all about the status of the connections that exists among individuals through a sequence of communication leading to an established relationship, real in case of direct contacts and virutal in case of Blog or IM. Sometimes, the frequency of communication dwindles due to the apparent limitations like being occupied within the pond of our own life, relocating to a different place,disapperance of the common ground on which the relationship was established... may be there are countless reasons. Whatsoever happens, we still cherish the moments in any relationship and sometimes it is also revived as a pleasant surprise.

It just happened that, I published a post titled Mark Antrobus on 11 June 2006 in memory of one of my dear friend Mark, who became my buddy way back in 2000. We were in touch for 2 years and after I left my native place, the only time I remembered him was when I wrote this post. I realized that, all the gratitude and love for him was latent in my subconcious, till it found a way of expression and lack of remembrance doesn't mean lack of gratitude and love. A couple of months after I published this post, there was a comment from Elango, a friend of Mark saying that, Mark has been looking to contact me. Though I was happy, there was no means to contact him, as it was an anonymous comment with a name.

Finaly, in early March 2007, I got an email from Mark, expressing his gratitude for the post with the all his contact information. After a gap of 5 years, we found each other! Last month, I got a comment from Fay, who used to be a friend of Mark and his mom, when Mark and Fay were 17/18 years of age. I passed on each other's contact information and I hope they are in touch now. A few days before, there was an email from one Haggis, who knew Mark and his mom, probably in early 1960s. It is amazing that, even after a disconnect of nearly 50 years, friendship gets revived as a new blossom.

All that I could infer from these mails is that, Mark has been very inspirational and no wonder, he is still the same. I'm really happy that, I rediscovered a friend and Kodaihills is connecting people:)

Here is the post - http://kodaihills.blogspot.com/2006/06/mark-antrobus.html

I still love Kodai

Following the meandering

Curves of your crystal brooks;

Biking through the less-traveled
Nerves of your shimmering hamlets;

Hiking on your enthusing knolls,
Sniffing the earthly aroma;

Encountering the fierce stare
Of the majestic lone bison;

Bliss of the whisperings creeks
Gracing your evergreen shola;

Relishing the luscious comb
Brimming with glittering honey;

Brushing off the lush green tress
Dangling of your pine trees;

Sprinkling of the delicate
Fragrant petals of your flowers;

Sinking in the orchestrated
Serenades of the rattling beetles;

Lying in trance between the
Cushy bosoms of your prairie;

These cherished memoirs of the past
Remain dissolved in my dreams.

Though we have abandoned each other,
The way I miss you In my sleepless nights,
Is the only proof to reassure that,
I love you always and forever.

Mark Antrobus

First meeting

Though it was a hills station, the summer of Kodaikanal in the recent past has been as hot as Madurai. I was standing under the shade of the a lone wattle tree watching the giant road-roller giving its final touch on the newly laid road surface on the Kodai – Ghat road KM 48/6. A green ambassador, must be a 1960 model, slowed down the near the parapet across the road and a lean foreigner unmounted the driver’s seat and I was surprise to see him walking towards me. He must be at least 40 years of age, but the thing that caught my eyes most was the three stripes of vibhuti (lines of ashes) and vermilion mark on his forehead. With his blond hair shining in the simmering sun, his mustache and beard flowing through his face, his eyes settled in a state of serenity, he looked much like a sage. He introduced him self as Mark Antrobus, an active member of CPCK (Consumer Protection Council of Kodaikanal) and the PHCC (Palani Hills Conservation Council). He appreciated me for having delivered a quality work in laying this road and a couple of other stretches on the Lake Round Road I had executed recently. I was elated, as no one, even the local people have never cared to really motivate me for providing quality roads in spite of the corrupt system.

At the KMU

The next time I met him was at the Kodai Missionary Union (KMU) Library that I visited on Saturdays to browse through the huge collection of books and to pick a book that would be my companion during my travel in the following week. The library was meant for people with missionary connections and I am grateful to Mr. Watson, a former librarian of the Kodai International School who introduced me to the library. Coming back to Mark, we made our coffee and Mark was asking me suggestions on the initiatives to be taken through the CPCK and PHCC to ensure quality roads in Kodaikanal. I was least interested, as these are the few hours I snatch to get rid of the road rollers, heat masters, mini-mix plants and the other road stuffs. However, I gave him a few suggestions, just to be courteous and ended the conversation. He invited me to his house as wanted to introduce me to his mom.

At his Cottage

His house was situated on a hill 2 furlongs from the load road leading to Prakasapuram and the grass path leading from the road to his house had a fencing of Hydrangea (known among locals as Idly poo, for it is shaped like the south indian dish Idly) on the valley side and a retaining wall adorned with the trailing creepers and climbers on the hill-side. It was a beautiful cottage and the calling bell was answered by Mark himself. He offered a warm welcome in the Tamil way (Vanakkam) and ushered me into the living room where he introduced me to his mom Mrs.Grace, who is turning 92 the following week. He excused himself to complete his morning prayers leaving me with his mom. I could hear him reciting Maniye Maniyin oliye, Olirum ani punaindha …… verses from Abirami Anthadhi. His Tamil pronunciation was as perfect as MNSK, our Tamil pundit in Sainik. Mrs. Grace playing with the cat on her lap, was very happy to have found a companion to talk and started sharing her experiences as a war correspondent with Reuters during the WW II. While she was me telling that she had named her cat as Pompon, a submarine she had seen in the WW II, Mark arrived with a towel around his bare body. He took me around the house and finally we landed in the Kitchen. He asked, if I would like to have a tea and I nodded yes with a big smile thinking that he would be procuring fresh tea leaves from Darjeeling or Munnar through his missionary contacts.

Herbal Tea

He lighted the stove and placed a vessel with 2 glasses of water in it. He opened the windows and plucked a couple of Hibiscus and Chrysanthemum flowers, a bunches of Mint, Coriander and Tulsi leaves from the pots on the Window sill. Then took a tray of containers and added dried Lime-grass, Fennel, Vettiver and Rosemary. Then he added 2 teaspoons of Palm-sugar, Honey and finally squeezed a few drops of lime juice on the decoction. Though I sipped it with apprehension, the aroma of the drink rushed through my senses and I felt a refreshed breath. In a week’s time, I stopped drinking Coffee and Tea and switched to Mark’s herbal drink after collecting all the ingredients from various sources. In a few months my frequent nose block was gone completely and I also my weight reduced significantly.

The Farm House

My visits continued and on a Thursday, he called and invited me to his house on the following Sunday, to accompany him on a picnic to the farm house he is constructing, where would be spending the later part of his life. On the scheduled Sunday, along with Mark and Mrs. Grace, I started the trip. Near the Bonded Labor shed on the Kodai Palani Ghat road, he took a left turn and headed on the Ganaesapuram Road. After 8 KMs, he parked the car near a group of locals with a palanquin made of a bamboo chair tied on a reaper on its two sides. The men carried his Mom on the palanquin while Mark and I followed them through the foot-path. It would have been at least 6 KMs when we reached a grove of lemon trees (Got reminded of the beautiful Lemon Tree song by Fool’s Garden).

The scent of the ripe lemon mixed with the strong smell of mud was rejuvenating. Through the grove, I saw a two storey house built in random rubble masonry. As we reached the cottage, the group led Mrs.Grace into the house, while we sat on the verandah that ran along the walls with its heavy stone pillars. Except for the occasional cooing of the birds and humming of the rolling stream, there was only silence. I felt more relaxed than ever after the 6 KM walk through the jungle and I wanted to remain there forever.

I noticed that there was something unique with the mortar binding the walls. Mark told me that he started building this house a year ago and would take another year to complete. The house was built with granite rubble stones collected from the vicinity and the mortar used for binding the stones is a mixture of red gravel, lime stones, sand and jaggery. He has not used cement or any of a artificial material in building this house. The windows and doors were made by reusing the old windows and doors as he is strongly against felling of trees in the name of development. The floor was laid with terracotta tiles and the roof was a simple truss like structure covered by Mangalore Tiles. The wide bath room was tiled beautifully with small pieces of broken tiles of varying colors that he collected from the debris of the bath rooms of his shenbaganur house and he personally laid it creating a piece of art. There was a solar heater and an array of solar panels to supply electricity to the house and the water got collected in a tank on the roof by through gravity from the water fall at the back yard. I busied myself engrossed in every minute details of the house and Mark went to the kitchen to prepare our lunch.

The lunch was a salad of Knol-Khol, Turnip and leeks, red rice porridge, boiled legumes and a salad of peach dipped in honey as dessert. After the lunch, I stretched on a slanting rock below the water fall with my legs hanging through the streaming water. It was almost 4’0 clock when Mark announced that we should leave else, it would be too dark to locate the foot path.

The disconnect

The last time I visited Mark was to wish Mrs.Grace on her 94^th birthday and after I left Kodai, I rarely thought about them. Few years before, when I was going through Fit for Life by Harvey and Marilyn Diamond, a book presented by Mark, I got reminded of Mark and I called him. Mark was happy to hear from me and his mom appreciated me on my thoughtfulness. I invited him to our home if he happens to visit Chennai and he told me there was no reason for him to leave Kodai. Moreover, he told that his farm house is in the verge of completion he is making arrangements for settling there very soon and wished I should come there for a stay. I thanked him and when I hung the phone, I felt a sense of heaviness growing on my heart for having left such a beautiful people and place. But I know, life should go on as is. Last year, I called to wish Mrs.Grace on her birthday, only to hear the voice on the other side saying “The number you have dialed no longer exists”. I realized that he would have settled in his farm house far from any form of communication. Probably, I will visit his farm house during my next visit to Kodaikanal and till then, my mind has enough stupidities to be occupied with.

Kodaikanal - The Pristine Beauty

History

Location

Roads to Kodai

How to Reach

Places to see

Though my blog is called Kodai Hills, so far I have not written anything on Kodai – the place that’s deeply rooted in my heart and soul, for it is a cradle of serenity with its pristine beauty and intoxicating aroma. The terrific tranquillity of Kodaikanal is simply awesome and infact, the serenity experienced at Kodaikanal is seldom found in other hill stations. Arguably, Kodaikanal is the most beautiful and the best-preserved hill station in the sub-continent.The summer retreat of Kodaikanal literally means gift of the forest and remains true even today.

Though there are many site in the web on Kodaikanal, I am unable to provide a reference as the information is in bits and pieces and their authenticity is questionable. Hence, I have decided to collect and present my own account, which I’m sure will be more authentic and informative.

History

Kodai Hills has a history as old as time. There are references to Kodaikanal in the Tamil Sangam literature of the early Christian era. In the pre-historic times, the primitive tribes of Paliyans and Pulyans resided near the Palani Hills and their descendants still live here in many of the hamlets. There is proof of settlement of prehistoric tribes at Kodaikanal by visible artifacts such as dolmens homes of great stone slabs. After the primitive tribes of Paliyans and Pulyans, in 14th century, villagers of Palani foot hills fled into Kodai hills, to escape from the oppressive rule in the plains and also from the invasion of Tippu Sultan.

Kodaikanal as a hill station was set-up by the Americans, though the British soon joined.The first European to visit Kodaikanal was Lt. B.S. Ward a surveyor in the year 1821. His Head Quarters was Vellagavi village. The irony is that, till now there’s no road to this village and to the many settlements in and around Vellagavi. The Hill bananas and the oranges from this village are exotic as they are cultivated without the user or any chemical fertilizers or pesticides.

During the Raj, the British / Americans could not bear the oppressive heat in Madurai and they faced sickness from epidemic diseases and consequential deaths. They wanted neat and healthy natural surroundings near Madurai to rest and improve their health. They were happy to find from the report of Lt. B.S. Ward about the hills with wonderful climate and easy accessibility from Madurai & Periyakulam. Many English and American missionary people visited Kodaikanal through various routes. Notable among them are J C Wroughton -Sub Collector, C R Cotton Judge and Dr. Weight. Dr.Fane built two houses in 1845 in the lake road. More houses were built by British Govt. The American Missionaries moved in and built a lot of dwellings in the southern side which is still there and now called 'Sunny Side' and 'Shelton' . In the year 1860, the first church was built jointly by the Bishop. American Madurai Mission built the union church in 1895.

From year 1860, there was all round improvement due to the visit of several dignitaries. Roman Catholics came, purchased a bungalow for Jesuit fathers, as rest house which is now called La Providence in upper shola road. Governors of Madras Sir Charles Travelyon and Lord Napier visited in the years 1860 and 1871. One major JM Partridge of the army introduced Eucalyptus and wattle trees in the year 1867. Bier Leverage, collector of Madurai lived in Pamhar house after his retirement. Only through his tireless efforts and initiative the artificial Kodaikanal lake, the foremost attraction of the tourists was formed. He arranged boat rides in the lake. He planned and executed several approach roads to Kodaikanal. He introduced several foreign trees and vegetables such as Pine Forms and Pears. In the year 1872 Lt. Coaker cut a path along the ridge of steep south eastern side which commends a magnificent view of the plains below. The path was named after him as Coaker's Walk and even today it offers a good walk with the panoramic view.

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Location

Kodaikanal lies in the Palani hills which is the eastern offshoot of the Western Ghats covering an area of 2400 Sq. Kms, and the town of Kodaikanal is centrally located. The Palani Hills is the main watershed for the Vaigai (South) and Amaravathi (Cauvery) (North) Basins. Geographically, Kodaikanal is located at a latitude of 10°7' N to 10°20' N and a longitude of 77°16' E to 77°45' E. Kodaikanal is situated at an altitude of about 2,133 m.

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Roads to Kodai

There are two ways which we can reach Kodai. One is the road via Batlagundu on the Kodai Ghat Road (58 KMs) whose gradient is brilliantly engineered with just 2 hairpin bends, thanks to the British who did the origional formation of the road. This is a double road ( 7.5 m in width) and is always well maintained. It wouldn't be fair to Kodaikanal not to show the beauty of the vegetation here and this scene everyone must know who was coming to Kodai as you must pass this road to get and to go from there. Enjoy this road, 1.5 to 2 hours drive through the mountains to the town. I did this road several times with the bike, many times broke my record descending this road in even less than 50 minutes - the bike ride in this road is a an ecstasy.

The other road is the one that emanates from Palani, which is called as the Kodai-Palani Ghat Road (62 KMs) poorly aligned and designed with 21 hair-pin bends, thanks(?!) to the Highways Department who did the formation in 1970 and this road became operational in 1975, the year in which I was born :). Both the roads meet at a place called Perumal Malai which is just 12 KMs from Kodaikanal.

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How to Reach

Kodaikanal is 120 KMs and takes 3 1/2 Hours from Madurai via the Kodai Ghat Road. There are frequent buses from Madurai and cab would cost you Rs. 1200 (Ambassador, Indica etc) to Rs 1500 (Quoalis, Sumo etc) depending on the vehicle.

From chennai or Bangalore, the distance is 520 KMs and I recommend you to take up any of the Chennai - Madurai train and descent at Kodai Road Jn. Kodiakanal is 70 KMs from here via the Kodai Ghat Road and a cab would cost you Rs 800 to Rs 1200. There are also direct buses (KSRTC, TNSEC,KPN, Parveen ) from Chennai and Bangalore that takes approximately 12 Hours.

From Coimbatore, Kodai is 175 KMs via the Kodai-Palani Ghat Road. There are direct buses from Coimbatore, Erode, Thiripur, Sathyamangalam, Gobi and frequest buses from Palani. From Palani, the cab would cost you Rs 800 to Rs1200.

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Places to see

Rat Tail Falls View

As soon as you ascend the Kodai Ghat road, at the 12 th KM, there is a place called DUM DUM Rock that provides a panoramic view of the Rat Tail Falls and the Manjalaar Dam. There is a view tower from where you can have a real good view and is worth a few snaps.

Silver Cascade


Silver Cascade waterfall is located on the Kodai Ghat Road about 8-km before you reach Kodaikanal. This is an artificial cascade in which the overflow of Kodai Lake drops down from about 180 feet high. This waterfall can be delightful and impressive when the fall is in full spate.

Kodai Lake

Kodaikanal Lake is a 24-hectare lake bounded by a 5 km long road and the central point of Kodai. The tree-fringed lake greets everyone in the crisp early morning and is the cool heart of Kodaikanal. It is the legacy of the then Collector, Sir Vere Livinge, who formed it by damming the valley where three streams flowed. There is a Boat Club that provides the tourists with Rowing Boats and Pedalling boats and a public ferry. If you are visiting Kodai as a couple, I recommend you to take a ride in the Shikara boat offered by the Carlton Boat House. Boat Race and various competitions are held every year during the Summer Festival.

Coaker's Walk

About a kilometre from the lake is Coaker's Walk that runs along a steep, emerald green wooded slope , offering a breathtaking panorama of the plains, the Vaigai Dam and the distant hills. This hill-edge path way was identified by Er. Coaker of the Royal Engineers, in 1872 and hence is named after him. There is a rugged pristine beauty about these vistas, and the mist rising in veils from the valley below, makes this place a heavenly abode.

Upper Lake View

Upper Lake View is 3.2 kilometres from Coaker's Walk on the way to Green Valley View and provides a magnificent view of the Kodai Lake and is worth a couple of snaps. The first picture in this post is the Upper Lake View.

Green Valley View

Driving along the cool green darkness with the trees making a canopy overhead, one reaches Green Valley View, formerly known as the Suicide Point, portrays a stunning view of the valley dressed and undulating green velvet carpet of vegetation and also commands a beautiful view of the entire Vaigai Dam. Here too, the mist rises from the valley, imparting a solemn, out-of-this-world beauty to the scene. The prestigious Kodai Golf Club is located that a colonial legacy

Pillar Rocks

Thick woods line the road leading to the Pillar Rocks. These are three vertical pillars standing shoulder to shoulder measuring 112 m and a cross hoisted in one of the pillars. The ground drops sheer below them, creating a dramatic impact and affording a stupendous view of the valley below. Soon mists wrap up the pillars in mystery and one wonders whether they are real, or whether they were a figment of one's imagination. Then the sun melts the mists away and the rocks rise, solemn and majestic, dappled in sun and shadow: the effect is ethereal and awe-inspiring. There is a small garden with widest range of flowers

Devil’s Kitchen

Rediscovered by Kamal Hassan in shooting his film Guna, this place is now called as the Guna Cave. The cave is formed as a chamber between the two rocks of the Pillar Rocks and presents a view as if it is an abyss.

Moir Point

Yet another View point after the devil’s kitchen on the Kodai – Cochin road, present am amazing view of a steep valley, the hills and a few hamlets (Chinnoor, Periyoor) located in the mountains ro sometimes a herd of hibex grazing in the mountains. There is a forest check-post here to prohibit unauthorized entry beyond this point through the road leading to Munnar via Berijam Lake. Also, a road leading to the the Goshen road (This is a road that originated from Observatory Road and streatches to may hamlets like Poombarai, Kavunji, Mannavanoor, Kookaal etc.) meets at this point completing the famous 14 miles round.

Berijam Lake

Berijam lake - 21 kms from Kodaikanal in Tamil Nadu is the most beautiful lake in all of South India. Originally discovered by the British & Spanish people, this place was a swamp 80-100 years ago. It has been converted to a lake with catchment areas around the lake. the lake itself is situated in a very high altitude...just a couple of hundred feet below kodai. The lake has very pure water and is the main source of water for a town called Periyakulam which is situated in the valley below Kodaikanal. Besides this, there are fantastic pine forests around the lake and theres something about pine trees and the fog and the lake and You have to see it to believe it !!

You only get permission to stay in Berijam till the evening, but if you are persuasive enough, you can get permission to stay overnight in Berijam ! There is a dormitory at Berijam, which can serve as a base for trekking. There is a canteen too with a friendly cook who'll cook anything for you, provided you have had the brains to shop for vegetables and stuff before getting here. Prakash, the cook will whip up anything you want to eat without any complaints. Iwould suggest you carry eggs and bread. This is the best breakfast you can have before you start on that wildest trek in your life !

You will realize the worth of the pain involved in getting the permission from the Forest Office, once you reach the Berijam Lake View - a spectacular view of a serene valley of shola forests with its diverse medicinal and aromatic plants and the lake resting like a pool of panacea in its bosom. There’s also a forest watch tower which provides an enthralling view of the same from an elevated point. Just 3 kilometers from this point is a shola called the Mathikettan Shola (people are sure to get mad on entering this shola because of the diverse variety of medicinal and aromatic plants it). This is preserved as on of the many endangered shola forests in Kodiakanal. There is also a possibility that your sight might catch up the glimpses of some fauna like Bisons, Nilgiri Lemurs, flying squirrels and deers.

Though boating is not allowed in this lake, it still remains as the most favoured picnic spot not only for the tourists but also for the locals. Don’t miss Berijam if you are visiting Kodai. From Berijam Lake, the road leads to Munnar (another paradise on earth) and is closed for the tourists. This road is another masterpiece left to us by the British. The road was operative till 1990 (the last time I took this road was in 1987 in a Jeep along with Gemini Ganesh and his family) but was ignored both by the Forest Department and Highways Department on a dispute over its ownership. Though the road is completey damaged till the Tamilnadu border, you can see that it is superbly maintained once you enter the Kerala border. Thanks to the Forest, Highways and the Tourism Depts of Kerala.

Goshen Road

To be continued............